This cosplay is my reproduction of the design and craftsmanship of Colleen guy Atwood, who created the costumes for Sleepy Hollow based on fashion from the 1780s.
It’s not 100% screen accurate, I still need to add trim the tops of both cuffs and find some 18th century shoes to wear with it…
But I am SO incredibly proud of what I’ve created. Almost everything is made entirely by hand and without preexisting patterns. I didn’t make my stays corset (that is underneath everything here and you can’t even see it but it was important to wear for the structure and silhouette of the garment) and the bases of my gloves, though I did add the trim to them. I’ve been watching so many historical dress creators the last few months attempting to use as many traditional sewing methods and construction as possible.
I truly adore looking at it on my dress form. I feel like I’m looking at a museum exhibit. I’ve never made anything quite like this before and with such detail. I seriously can’t believe I’m sitting here looking at this outfit, let alone that I made it, and in less than two months on a last minute whim. I’ve always wanted a historical styled piece and now I have one. I am so exhausted after weeks of late nights hammering away at this, but this overwhelming sense of accomplishment despite how terrible things have been in my life recently gives me such joy. I will, quite literally, create my own happiness.
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References:
I definitely became more interested in historical fashion and design, so around the beginning of this build I started watching as variety of historical dress YouTube channels, especially Bernadette Banner! If you’re not already a fan, I highly recommend you check out her work: https://youtube.com/@bernadettebanner.
You can check out the link below for more of the gorgeous outfits designed by Colleen Atwood in the blog:
http://www.costumersguide.com/sleepy5.shtml
The Build:
https://www.spoonflower.com/en/fabric/1087074-sleepy-diagonal-mock-embroidered-fabric-by-bonnie_phantasm
Maybe I’ll make my own at a later point off of historical patterns.
I needed to make a chemise/shift for the undergarments of the outfit. I found this nightgown at a thrift shop that was perfect as a base layer. (It even has pockets!) They actually had multiples of the same gown so I bought a second one to add sleeves and edit out the ruched elastic back.
…And…. Ooo! Dayuuuummmm! Somebody stop me from wearing nothing but my 18th century undies! 😂. Babes, this is A LOOK and I’m thinking I’m into it. Katrina Van Tassel’s shift has a lace trim on the collar and sleeves, with a ribbon run through the collar’s lace to draw it in. My lace seems like it’s too wide, but I might start becoming a historical fashion girly.
These will have to do for now. I might come back to them at some point in the future when I learn how to properly make my own embroidered trim, but it’s not meant to be for this con.
My braclets and necklace aren’t screen accurate - but they get the job done for now.
If Christina Ricci ever does make her way to this area again maybe I’ll redo them for next time.
I learned how to crochet around an existing hoop here: https://youtu.be/ScdO2v_JKXQ?si=H25491i8R3D7ECvq
I took keychain jump rings, white embroidery thread, and the smallest crochet hook I could find that was available (No. 0 - 1.75 mm.)
8 tiny crocheted hoops later and I’m exhausted. Can’t say I’ll ever take up micro-crocheting as an actual hobby, but proud of my short stack of these.
Now to rest my hands. 😅❤️🩹😭
These fabrics and trims are the closest I could find to the original. Doing to have to make several layers of ribbon to try to imitate the original. Might also use the thinner, golden ribbon and sew with it on top to add dimension. I’d like to use the light yellow tassel trim but it’s discontinued and I don’t know if I have enough. When I get the base finished I’ll have to see. Otherwise I have this gold tassel trim as a back up that I’ll have to give a haircut to.
I tried to cut the fabric to match where the seams were on the original.
Rename this dress “Stabitha” instead of Katrina… bodice lining is all pinned together and ready for me to tear apart again so I can trace and cut out the outer layer. 🙃
Looking back at it now, I should have made the overall length of the bodice longer than my actual measurements to lengthen my short torso. I may down the line modify or rebuild this part if I get the gumption to put in the extra work. 😅
I think maybe a really tight herringbone stitch might look nice.
This thread embroidery is gonna take awhile. 😅
Trying to sew on the two picot ribbons with the gold ribbon and do two steps in one. It’s a Loooooooootttttttt of layers to get through. I really like the finished look of it, though! It’ll be worth not feeling my hands for awhile. 🤣
Since the skirt fabric ended up being so dark, the floral fabric looks kinda clashy now. 😕 what do you think?
So I’ve been combing through fabrics online to see if I could grab something other than the floral I have…but all of my top contenders are out of stock locally. I could tone the existing fabric down with tulle… maybe grab a yellow or light green tulle? I don’t think a tulle layer would be historically accurate but we’re in crunch time. 😅
Bought a sheer, mint organza to try to tone down the floral cotton print. It’s going to be more reflective and less accurate material wise… but aesthetically I’m hoping it won’t contrast as much. (Organzas seem to have been around in the 18th century but they weren’t widely available. When they were used they were incorporated in ruffles, bonnets, and other delicate pieces.)
Comparatively mine’s a little TOO excitedly bumpy… 😅 (See the original in the first pic.). In my attempts to make the ribbon seem to be stitched through the back of the bodice I’ve made them exaggeratedly dimensional.
My right handed line already had to seamed ripped and redone halfway down since my line drifted inward and made the spacing uneven. Not feeling like redoing them again to smooth them down. 😂 Maybe if I hate it and want to make adjustments at a later date. But NOT for today!!!
I also did a little research into spiral lacing since this is how Christina Ricci wore the bodice in the film.
Check out this little guide I found on how to Spiral Lace: http://www.homemade-costumes-from-history.com/spiral-lacing.html
The lower portion of the front panels will be closed with hook and eyes, as the original costume piece had as well. Not sure on the historical accuracy of contemporary hook and eyes are, but it’ll be closer to screen accuracy at least.
This is seriously turning out so cute and WAY more comfortable to wear than I had anticipated! I have a great range of motion, especially for something that LOOKS constricting. I gave my gold tassel trim a haircut since the original bodice didn’t have long, luxious locks. Added in my spiral lace positioned crocheted hoops and I am SHOOK how supported they feel! There’s absolutely no strain on the bodice due to lacing. (I haven’t added the hook and eyes at the bottom yet, and it’s the natural curve of the plastic boning that’s forcing it to curve up and outward.)
Still have to:
✅ add THREE more ribbons to this trim
☑️ sew on the skirting and cuffs
☑️ put the SAME five ribbon layer trim on the tops/bottoms of the cuffs
✅/☑️ sew in mini embroidery hoops and hook & eyes to lace up the front
☑️ add floral modesty panel
☑️ add floral back piece (in the v-neck)
☑️ add thick floral piping along the waist
☑️ make a long, floral ribbon to rest below the bottom back panel.
✅ 3 ribbon stitch striping details on the back panel
☑️ adhere organza to the floral fabric
☑️ make the skirt
I’m not in love with the final results. If I do remake or rework the voice down the line, I think I will have a custom floral print made up that is more green tones like the original dress.
Didn’t get to post or take a lot of the last progress pics since I was on such a time crunch!
Shoutout to my brother for the oversized zip ties! They’re an awesome and inexpensive alternative to purchasing plastic boning!
I followed a couple of videos on how to make the skirt and my giant, hidden pocket.
- Skirt: https://youtu.be/6xHOnS4fK2c?si=6TePfn7Dm7UNnjzO
- Pocket: https://youtu.be/phFUTqoW5B8?si=Ib_XOfTobOTGCluT
I was literally still working on the trim on the way to the convention.
The Results:
There was a neat and semi-old looking fireplace at the outside the convention center by the bar at Motor City Comic Con. Did a little photoshoot. I had never put the entire costume together before this as I was still rushing to complete it, even on the drive there.
I also wore the dress again and found a little “old shack” at a pumpkin farm that was hosting an event called Eiver of Time, which is like a Renaissance Festival but for American History. I edited the shack pics to look more like the burn down house from Tim Burton’s Sleep Hollow and add a chalk pentacle to the floor.
Down the line I’ll be getting a wig to match Katrina’s platinum blonde locks from the film, but by then I might make the other adjustments to the dress itself as well.
Let me know what you think about my first historical cosplay!